draft & sew a custom fit reversible coat

by:Nanqixing     2020-04-10
I\'m a bit like a hacker when it comes to sewing. . .
I really don\'t know what I\'m doing, but pretend to be it before I make it reasonable.
Approach your project with a skilled eye and make the seam ripper handy!
Over the past Halloween, I spent an unusually cold weekend at the beach, painted this coat, during the holidays, I wish I had built it in strong winds in eastern Texas, then in the newsletter of February 25 saw the notice of the Sew Warm contest, and the instructures inspire me to finally get started! This -
The Able will guide you through the measurement, drawing the pattern, cutting the fabric, sewing the reversible funnel neck coat (avoiding set-
Because they are the bane of my drafting, sometimes sewing, being)
, And make the fabric cover button for it. A multi-able, of sorts.
If you\'re as lucky as I am, there are a few components on hand, buy a few wool/A can of buttons for every dollar, and you can make a comfortable coat for $3. 25 USD. -
Basic sewing skills
Pencil/pen, marker/chalk-
Flexible tape measure-ruler/semi-
Rigid tape measure-
Gift paper towel/News newspaper/Christmas gift package remaining. . .
Any large scrapscissors-
Repair the tape that is misplaced/torn or pieced together [pattern paper]-
Comfortable fabric, two cloth of equal size-
Coordination/contrast/different/same--roughly 3 -5 sq. yds. total.
Old blankets, flannel sheets in the store *bought fleece. . .
Any warm fabric is OK.
I will use (2x)
50 \"x 60\" wool throwing **;
Free from washing and wrinkle (
I skipped this section as you can see)-
Can use sewing machine and machine if you have permissionthread-many pins (
Quilting pins are helpful when using thick material)-8 -16 largish (3/4\" to 1-1/2\" --
Large enough to operate with gloves on your fingers)[
Buttons, checkers, tiles, craft marbles](
Anything that can withstand tumbling and drying under low heat)
Or you can assemble a handle that matches/coordinates the buttons and skip the cover section)optional:-
Caffeine-containing drinks
Mozart Piano Concerto
Kitty helpers * flannel is a woven material that will wear out-
Using appropriate stitching techniques (serge, use zig-
In addition to straight, French seams, double hems and c, there is zag)
Maintain seams and hems with additional allowances as required.
For this-
Able, will only use non-
Anti-release materials such as wool or (felted)wool.
** There is enough material to make a reversible coating with maximum body size (
Chest, waist or hip)of 40\".
Depending on the way a person drafts a pattern, more material may be needed for a larger size.
As an alternative, this coat can not be
Reversible, which requires a little more than half the amount of fabric to allocate more seam/hem allowance on the collar, button panel, cuffs and skirt.
With flexible tape measure, all measurements should be placed loosely on the clothes to ensure the correct measurementgarment ease (
I don\'t. my coat fits well. -
It will be limited to comfortable t-shirts. . .
It\'s a good thing that wool is a little elastic); have [
Notepad and pencil
Handwriting recognition letters (A-L)
There are corresponding measurements.
A: The collar ring determines the desired height of the collar and measures the circumference of the head/neck at this point, leaving a little slack for comfort.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
I want the best neck coverage as I recently got rid of my hair so my collar will be high and this should add a little talent when undoing the buttons.
B: collar height measure distance from top of will
Collar height, straight down the oblique muscle.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
C: The lowest point of the shoulder crumbs from the height of the collar (at trapezius)
, Measure to the edge of your shoulder.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
D: Measure the distance vertically from the lowest point of the collar height (at trapezius)
About 2 \"below the top of the underarm crease \"(
Or whatever the distance, your sleeves are most comfortable to sit on-
It\'s never good to have a bunch of fabric stuffed in your pit: p).
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
E: Measuring the arm distance around the arm (
At the bottom of yoke length--
Should be the thickest part of the arm).
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
F: from the bottom of yoke length to the desired sleeve length (
3/4 sleeve, measuring the midpoint of the forearm;
Otherwise, wrist, fingertips and other parts! ).
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
I wish I had a good overlap with my glove cuffs, so I measured it with a Knuckles.
G: sleeve ring determines the sleeve circumference required at the bottom of F (Cuff ends).
Measurement E for direct sleeve use;
For the cone sleeve, measure the perimeter at the bottom of F and easily add inches.
Avoid conflicts between coats and cuffsmittens]
I chose a slightly expanded sleeve (4 \"wider than E).
A better choice, it can also work well [mitten]
The cuffs, which will be the leg of the lamb-style cuffs, are measured with 3/4 sleeves, at this point (
~ 4 \"wider than E);
Measure the circumference of the forearm at this point, from the bottom of the hand (
Just passed the wrist)
, And the circumference of the wrist at the bottom of the hand.
For ease of use, this-
Yes, I will only use straight, bottom-expanding or tapered sleeves to write the direction.
If you choose to eat leg of lamb, do an image search and solve the problem with your creativity :)
H: Cross the bread piece across the outside arm of the body to the outside arm at the bottom of D
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
I: Do measurements around the chest in the largest position of the chest.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
J: starting with H/base of D, the required coating length is measured.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
K: measure the circumference of the body around the bottom edge of J (
My hips;
But if any part of the body is larger than this, measure the perimeter at that point to get a better fit)
, Rounded to the nearest inch, adding 2 \"ease (
When from sitting to standing, comfort brings the coat back to place).
Pay attention to this number
Go ahead and expand the bottom theme on the sleeve, I used a little-
The line shape of the body is increased by 6 \"instead of 2 \". L (not pictured)
: Place a ruler or half ruler in the body part
Rigid tape measure under the dominant arm measured by E;
Hold it with your arm [ruler]
Between the arm and the body, measure the depth of the body from the front of the arm to the back.
The closest inch;
Pay attention to this number
It\'s time to post news/scrap or paper towels and pen/pencil/marker.
Using measurements A to D and measurement H, we will start drafting the collar/yoke from the maximum measurement: HAdd 1 to H, for the joint allowance of 1/2, measuring and marking on paper.
Add 1 \"to D, measure this distance from both ends of H and mark.
Using C, measure inward from the highest point of D on both sides and Mark.
Measure up from the internal point of C (B plus 1/2\")and mark.
Connect the top point of B.
This distance should be equal (1/2 of A)+ 1\".
Tilt C slightly and round the corner made of the intersection of D and C.
Cut this pattern;
Marked as \"collar \".
Using measurement I to K, we will draft the body from the maximum measurement: divide K into two halves and add 1 \", measurement and marking.
Mark half too-
The point of this measurement.
From both ends
Method point, measurement (J plus 1\")and mark.
From the top of the J mark, half centered
The left and right marks are used as the guide, and the measurement (1/2 of I)+ 1\" and mark.
Connect the left and right end of I to the corresponding end of K.
Cut this pattern; mark as \"back\".
We will now make measurements through G.
Take G, add 1 \", mark it on paper, and do halfway point.
Add 1 \"in F, measure up from both ends of GMark, it\'s the way.
Centered on E, plus 1 \", in half-way point.
Mark, use left and right tags as a guide.
Connect these of the left and right ends of E to the corresponding ends of G.
Cut this pattern;
Marked \"sleeve \".
Using measurements C to E, L combined with \"collar\" and \"back\", we will determine the dimensions on the inside of the shoulder.
On \"back\", measure from the outside (1/2 of L)
Add 1/2 \"to line K and I, including left and right.
Mark and fold inward.
Center the \"back\" at the bottom of the \"collar\" and measure the \"collar\" section that extends to the \"back (
Note this measurement is M)
Minus 1/2 \".
Double this measurement, add L, then subtract this number from E, add 1 \";
Measure and mark on paper, also mark halfway point.
Add measurement C to D 1 \"and measure this distance from half a startway point;
Mark and connect external points to form a triangle.
Cut this pattern;
Marked as \"illustration \".
We will use the pattern block \"collar\" and \"back\" to determine and mark the position of the button panel.
The center of the button panel is the fastest and easiest.
If you do a high collar like I do, you may not want a button on your nose or mouth, so my work will be set to be built with an asymmetrical button panel.
Fold the \"collar\" half vertically;
Mark the top and bottom of this crease (
Center creases or button creases if center button); unfold.
If you don\'t center the button, fold the pattern you want the button to fall vertically (button crease);
Mark the top and bottom of this crease; unfold.
Repeat this step with \"back\", fold in the center, where the button will be if there is no center button. Line up the [center crease]
At the top of the \"back\" [center crease]
\"Collar\", make sure that the button creases on the \"collar\" are aligned with the button creases on the \"back.
The left and right side of the button creases on the two pieces (
\"Collar\" and \"back \")Measurement 1-
Creases 1/2 \"from the top and bottom \"; mark;
Connect these marks by drawing vertical lines.
Use the pattern pieces \"collar\" and \"back\" that we will draft \"(trace)
Left and right.
This is an easy-to-use step that can be skipped by using the \"collar\" and \"back\" folds to make the left and right front to crop the fabric.
Fold the \"collar\" on the line to the right of the button crease \".
Track this shape on another [sheet]scrap]; cut out;
Marked \"right collar \".
Fold the \"collar\" on the line to the left of the button crease \".
Track this shape on [scrap]; cut out;
Flip and Mark as \"left collar \".
Repeat these steps with \"back\" and mark them as \"right front\" and \"left front\" respectively \".
Arrange the fabric A and place the pattern block in A group as closely as possible.
Keep in mind that you will cut two \"sleeves\" and two \"illustrations\" leaving the necessary fabric.
Once you have a grouping to your satisfaction, start fixing or marking (chalk/marker --
These marks will be hidden after sewing)
Pattern fragments and cut pieces on the fabric.
Remember to cut down two of the \"sleeves\" and two of the \"illustrations.
Arrange the fabric B and repeat the processing, fix/Mark the pattern on the fabric and cut the pieces from the fabric.
If you don\'t center the button, be sure to flip all the asymmetrical pattern blocks and pay attention to the right side so that the inside and outside shells are aligned.
Separate your pieces and put away the things that will be [inner shell].
I made it with the inner shoulder of fabric B and other fabric [outer shell].
Mix and match according to your inner desires :)
If some of your work is similar in shape/size, please make a small identifier.
Facing the right side, place the \"right side of the collar\" on the \"collar\" to align the curved edge;
Nail the edge of the collar together.
Repeat, nail the \"left collar\" on the \"left collar.
Sew these two seams.
Lift the curved edge of the \"right side of the collar\", align the \"Illustration: with the bottom edge of the\" collar \"and fix it along the curve. Sew.
Repeat, nail the \"illustration\" on the \"collar\" and sew.
If there is any gap between the collar seam and the shoulder seam, connect the two.
Cut off the tip of the \"illustration.
Repeat the process with another shoulder, pin the \"illustration\" on the \"collar\" and \"left collar.
Find and mark the center at the top of the \"back\" and at the bottom of the \"collar.
The center of the competition faces the right; pin.
On the \"back\", measure the distance between M and the outer edge; pin.
Sew from the M needle to the M needle.
Open the \"collar on the right\" so you can see the right.
Facing the right side, align the top and edge of the \"front right\" with the bottom and the outside (
Across the shoulder)
The edge of \"leading right;
Pin on the inner edge of \"right front (
Should be an illustration of the back shoulder)
, Measure the distance between M and pin.
Sew from the outer edge to the M needle.
Repeat the process by pinning and sewing the \"left side of the body\" to the \"left side of the collar \".
Fix the inner edge of the \"left collar\" and \"Left Front\" to \"back \"(
This is a great place to test fit and make any minor adjustments. . . carefully! pins! );
SewFold sleeves with semi-vertical, needle and seam.
Marking Center (at fold).
Turn out the main body of the coat;
Align the sleeve seam with the side seam, pin;
Find the center of the \"illustration\" and pin the \"sleeve\" center to the \"illustration\" center.
Along the edge around the sleeve opening, nail the fabric together. Sew. . .
It may be a bit tedious, so hurry up, hand-
If it\'s not so nervewracking.
Repeat with a second sleeve.
Repeat all previous assembly steps with Fabric B [inner shell]
, Remember, if your button panel is not centered, then the \"right collar\", \"left collar\", \"right front\", \"Left Front\" will be opposite to the respective faces on [[Case].
Both pieces were turned out and the extra joint allowance was trimmed.
I \"trimmed to about 1/2\" from 3/16 \". . .
Use your judgment.
Leaving less margin will reduce the volume, but also cause a hole if cut too close.
Once the trim is finished, continue to try on one piece and turn the first one over.
Carefully remove the coating, keep the pieces aligned as much as possible, and use the pin to keep the inner casing on the edges and other places that look logical.
Just remove the pin (
Avoid excessive shifts)
, With a needle between two layers, double the line and start sticking the inner/outer \"inset\" together at the bottom [triangle]
, Points, and curves around yoke.
We will start turning the layers off by turning the edges (1/2\")
Around the collar, right/left body;
Nail, then stitch as close as possible to the top of the edge-
1/8 \"to 1/4\" will do--
Start from the bottom of the front side, start from the front, go through the collar and start from the other side.
Do not return if machine is used-
Stitching at the beginning or at the end, if hand-sewn, leave a few inches of line at the start and end points, as you may need to unscrew a few stitches and rotate down from the bottom of the yoke to the skirt, make sure it is uniform;
If uneven, turn at the shortest 1/2 points, turn around the bottom, turn under the hem, and keep the distance from the shackles.
Turn like you do on your collar.
Pick up the stitching you left on one side, back-stitching (
If sewing by hand or knotting/pulling threat)
, Turn the corner, stitch through the bottom edge, turn the second corner, and then go back to the end point of another front stitchstitching.
Treat the cuffs like a skirt, measure/night length;
Turn under/pinning; then top-stitching.
Pick up the remnants of your fabric, your (will-be)
Buttons, scissors, needles and thread.
Cut a piece of fabric a little twice as much as your [button].
Run a sewing needle (
Double Thread)
About half [button]
Around the fabric. Place [button]
At the center of these stitches, tighten the line and [button].
Pinch the excess fabric, as close as possible to the button, and wrap the line tightly at this point several times (
I have about 12 packages).
Under the package, pass the needle through the width of the button several times;
Pack a few more times;
Fasten and leave an important end of the line so that the button can be stitched later (
Only half of the buttons need a tail because we basically sew them together through the panel);
Cut off the excess fabric.
Repeat, override all your buttons. . . for both sides.
The number and location of the buttons depends entirely on personal preference, and if your coat is close-fitting, or it will Gap, don\'t put them too far away.
I make four buttons on each side of the contrasting fabric and separate them 4 \"(on center)
, Starting from about 1 \"down at the top of the collar. On the under-
Grind the flaps, select the vertical position of the top button and place a pin at this point.
Measure 1 \"in from the outside edge and place the pin through the first one.
Your button will be centered here.
Continue with each of your buttons this way.
On overlapping flaps, mark these same positions as they will be the center point of the buttonhole.
Check that your pin is aligned on both fronts.
Center the button at the pin crossing, stitch the button together using the tail of the line, one on either side of the button panel. Buttonholes!
Measure the diameter of the button and center the measurement at the pin crossing on the overlap panel, marking this distance with pins or markers.
Use this marker as a guide for stitching the buttonhole, starting right above, ending right below, and then cutting the center.
I hope your buttonhole skill is bigger than mine, or, at least, if you are using a machine, it doesn\'t decide that the fabric is a delicious enjoyment. Cozy Up!
Put on your coat and admire your handmade work!
Turn it over and turn it back on and notice how smart you are!
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